Lump-Free Gravy

Food writers, under what they think is a perceived pressure from readers–and a bit of ego, think that they have to reinvent the wheel every year for holiday meals. The truth that I've learned over 20-plus years is that most of us want the comfort of tradition; the food that we know will be on the holiday tables year in and year out. We might tinker a bit, and even add a new or revised side dish, but especially at Thanksgiving, you give 'em what they want. It's a good rule to follow since there are so many weapons in a kitchen that can be used to persuade a cook that goes too far off course. And even with a misstep, our families are generally forgiving.

There is one item that cannot be screwed up: Gravy.

Thanksgiving gravy is the tie that binds the meal, not just another condiment or flavor. I can't think of a worse setting than a gravy-less holiday meal. And the gravy needs to be real; gravy from a can is strictly forbidden. I get more questions about gravy making than cooking the bird or making cranberry sauce. The complaint is always the same–"my gravy is always lumpy".

Here's the key, so repeat after me: hot roux, cold broth, no lumps. Say it out loud at least three times. The reverse is also true.

Please don't panic over the word roux. It's simply flour and fat. You're not doing some New Orleans classic that requires a dark roux and careful cooking.

I grew up with giblet gravy, not knowing there was any other kind. My first Thanksgiving with my future in-laws introduced me to pan gravy, this brown smooth stuff that totally took me of guard, but was pretty awesome. It was new and different, and I was hooked. But lately, as I have unburdened my mother of the turkey, dressing, and gravy, I find myself making both pan and giblet gravy. Here's how to do both.