When we asked Ben and Karen Barker of the sorely missed Magnolia Grill fame, and authors of Not Afraid of Flavor and Karen’s book, Sweet Stuff, what they always had around the holidays, Ben was pretty blunt- ”There’s four chefs in the family, everything changes every year.” Then he paused a moment, looked at Karen and his son Gabe, and at almost the exact same time “cheese straws” came out from all.

Karen gives us an out to use frozen puff pastry (we tested the 2 national brands and recommend Dufour only) but the recipe for her “quickie puff pastry” was kinda fun to make if you have the time.

Preparation for the Puff Pastry Combine the flour, salt, and butter in a mixer bowl and mix, on low speed, using a paddle, until the butter breaks up slightly (about 1 minute). Add the water and mix until the mixture just barely comes together. Do not overwork! This can be done in a food processor, using the pulse mechanism.

Gather the dough mass into a rectangular shape and place on a lightly floured surface. Using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll the dough into a 12 x 7-inch rectangle. Fold into thirds lengthwise, as if you were folding a letter. Give the dough package a quarter turn to the right, lightly reflour the working surface and the top of the dough, and roll out again. Fold the dough into thirds, give it a quarter turn, and repeat the same rolling/folding process 2 more times, for a total of 4 “turns.” Wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate for 2 hours. Remove from the refrigerator for 10 minutes and repeat the rolling/folding process 2 additional times, for a total of 6 “turns.” Rewrap the dough in plastic and chill 2 hours before using.

This dough can be made ahead and frozen for up to 2 months or refrigerated for up to 3 days. If you have frozen the dough, allow it to defrost in the refrigerator overnight. Always remove the dough from the refrigerator about 10 to 15 minutes before rolling out the cheese straws.

Preparation for the Cheese Straws Place the egg and water in a small bowl and beat to combine. Reserve.

Combine the Parmesan, cayenne, and paprika and mix well. Reserve.

On a lightly floured surface, roll the puff pastry out into a 9 x 16-inch rectangle. Brush the top of the dough with some of the egg wash and sprinkle evenly with half of the cheese mixture. With a lightly floured rolling pin, press the cheese into the dough, using a light rolling motion. Turn the dough over and repeat the egg wash, cheese sprinkling, and rolling process.

Trim the edges of the dough—a pizza wheel is the ideal tool to accomplish this. Cut the dough in half lengthwise and then cut crosswise into ¾ -inch-thick sticks.

Line baking sheets with parchment paper and sprinkle the parchment lightly with flour.

Pick the straws up, holding both ends, and gently stretch and twist them before placing them on the prepared baking sheet. Leave 1½ inches between each straw. Place the cheese straws in the refrigerator or freezer and chill until very firm. They can be made ahead to this point and frozen.

Bake in a preheated oven at 425° for 12 minutes, until the cheese straws are well “puffed.” Turn the baking sheet around. Turn the oven to 325° and bake for an additional 15 to 18 minutes, until the cheese straws are starting to brown lightly. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 2 to 3 minutes. With a metal spatula or pie server, remove the cheese straws from the baking sheet while still warm. Allow to cool.

Serve within 1 hour. You can bake these in advance and recrisp them shortly before serving.

Makes approximately 3 dozen

Adapted from Not Afraid of Flavor